Naomi: In Fashion at the V&A Museum is a dazzling homage to Naomi Campbell, the supermodel who has dominated runways and headlines for nearly four decades. Billed as the first major exhibition dedicated to a model rather than a designer, it celebrates her cultural significance, groundbreaking achievements and lasting influence on fashion. Beneath its veneer of glamour and prestige, however, the exhibition struggles to offer a deeper exploration of Campbell’s multifaceted legacy.
The exhibition opens with a powerful montage of Campbell’s iconic runway moments, setting a tone of reverence and energy. Visitors are immediately immersed in her world, with interactive features like the ‘Walk Like Naomi’ experience adding a playful and engaging touch. The garments on display, many from Campbell’s own archive, are a stunning visual testament to her symbiotic relationships with legendary designers such as Azzedine Alaïa, Gianni Versace and Vivienne Westwood. These pieces highlight her role not just as a muse, but as a collaborator who shaped the way these designs were perceived.
One of the most compelling aspects of the exhibition is its focus on Campbell’s cultural impact. Her December 1987 British Vogue cover, which marked only the third time a Black woman had graced the magazine’s cover, serves as a poignant reminder of her disruptive influence in an industry long dominated by Eurocentric standards. This moment, alongside her activism for diversity in fashion and her philanthropic work in Africa, underscores her significance beyond the catwalk.
The exhibition positions Campbell not merely as a model, but as a cultural icon who has consistently used her platform to challenge conventions. Campbell’s story is one of triumph and complexity, but this exhibition hesitates to embrace the vulnerability that could bring her myth to life. By briefly acknowledging, but not fully exploring her struggles, the exhibition seems to prioritise preserving her status as a larger-than-life figure.
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Potentially this distance is intentional – a way of ensuring Naomi remains a myth, untouched by the weight of human frailties. Visually stunning, Naomi: In Fashion is striking in its celebration of Campbell’s career. Yet for all its beauty, it feels incomplete. The choice to sidestep a deeper exploration of her humanity leaves visitors in awe of her legacy, but yearning for a more intimate understanding of the woman who created it. And perhaps this is a purposeful choice rather than a missed opportunity.
Perhaps not everything needs to be a dissection of struggle and hardship. Sometimes, it’s simply about revelling in the extraordinary. And Campbell is certainly extraordinary.
Naomi in Fashion will be at the V&A South Kensington, Cromwell Road, London SW7 until 6 April 2025; ticketed.
