In a world of religious tension, it is music that brings disparate traditions together. India – ‘land of contrasts’ is a tourist cliché, but there is always an element of truth in the most tired catchcry, and there is no doubt that the subcontinent has many rich and varied cultural experiences to offer the adventurous visitor.
But even fellow Indians view Rajasthan as the most colourful and diverse state of all. Rubbing shoulders with Pakistan, the mostly-desert land sprawls across India’s north-west border. No wonder the name means Land of Kings – in days long gone no fewer than 22 principalities fitted inside the area that today is called Rajasthan. Trade routes, warlords, feudalism, Mughal rule and of course, the British Raj have all shaped the many traditions of this vast area. In a country of festivals, Rajasthan has more than most – and naturally, every festival must have music.
Remote regions are no less immune to Western influence than big cities, so a revival of local interest in the Rajasthani folk music tradition is being welcomed. Touring and playing at home is one thing. But Krishna’galhar, based in Jodhpur, is one group hoping to send the message of the richness of Rajasthani music to the wider world. As a genre, ‘world music’ is a growing scene, having its own global events such as WOMEX. Yet to date, the musicians of Rajasthan have not been as well represented as they might at such international festivals. Krishna’galhar is hoping to change perceptions and incite Western interest in a music that is unlike any other in the vast subcontinent.
The glimpses offered by the Krishna’galhar website are indeed tantalising. The sounds may be exotic to western ears, but there is no mistaking the joy of the musicians as they sing, dance and play instruments such as the flute-like alogooza; stringed saarangi; kartals; dholak and a modified Western instrument – the harmonium.
Culture knows no borders, and the musical heritage of Rajasthan reflects the long tradition of Muslim and Hindu interaction and a nomadic heritage. Pakistan – India, what’s in a name? Blood has been spilt over territories such as these, and the politicians jealously guard every inch of land, but for gypsy wizard musicians such as these, boundaries mean little.
So who are the makers of traditional Rajasthani music? Traveling from festival to fair and on to another festival, the musician castes of Rajasthan have spread and shared their music across the centuries. People from the Langa, Manganyar and Kalbelias castes each bring their own flavor to the Rajasthani musical mix.
The Muslim Langa – Langa means ‘soul soother’ – traditionally perform for fellow Muslims at the important markers of the life-cycle, and on religious holidays. Their music is passed on as an apprentice accompanies his master gradually building up a large repertoire of songs. As poets, singers and musicians, the Langa create particularly harmonic, melodic sounds and in the past were sustained by their Muslim patrons – receiving food and shelter in return for their performances.
In contrast, the translation for Manganyar is ‘one who begs’. It appears that this caste was once Hindu, converting to Islam some centuries ago. Their patrons remain Hindu, and they perform in Hindu temples, but the status of the Manganyar has been lowly. More nomadic than the Langa, they are known for their spontaneous, energetic music.
Kalbelias men are the snake charmers of Rajasthan, and this tradition is reflected in the sinuous dances of the women. Also nomadic, they are worshipers of the cobra and follow Shiva and yogic philosophies.
Bring these three disparate traditions together, and you find that the folkloric past of Rajasthan is being nurtured by groups such as Krishna’galhar. Based in the city of Jodphur, the eight musicians, singers and dancers are keeping the past alive.
Comprising members from all three musical castes – who would not normally play on the same stage – Krishna’galhar’s music ranges from the soulful to the pulsating, with the sound matching the richness of the dress of its players.
With no government support, groups such as Krishna’galhar are dependent on the patronage of audiences. In Jodhpur, the Marvadi – generally a class of astute business people – provide the bulk of the group’s sustenance, but in keeping with the nomadic tradition, the group also takes their songs, dances and music across the deserts and mountains of Rajasthan. The group is hoping that their travels will be even more extensive, should the international invitations start rolling in.
For those of us unable to travel to Rajasthan in the near future, Krishna’galhar’s website gives a flavour of the music from the Land of Kings with two generous movie clips. How much better to hear this music live. With any luck, perhaps these talented musicians will be coming to a festival near you. Sooner, rather than later, we hope.
